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 Imagine Dublin and visions of Guinness, Leopold Bloom, and hearty breakfast plates piled high with Irish bacon and farm-fresh eggs (and maybe even U2 and Bono) might spring to mind. Think what you will, but Ireland’s largest city — and its capital for more than a thousand years — is currently enjoying its newfound status as one of the hottest and most livable cities in not just Europe, but the world.
On Ireland’s central east coast along the banks of the Liffey River, where so many literary greats beyond James Joyce were born — Jonathan Swift, Oscar Wilde, W.B. Yeats, George Bernard Shaw and Samuel Beckett, to name a few — these days Dublin is showing off trendy coffee houses, foodie-friendly restaurant stops, and smart boutiques filled with Burberry-clad shoppers combing the racks and shelves. However, there’s still much to see from days gone by in this historical city.
The city center is bisected by the River Liffey, a good orientation point for visitors. The Royal Canal forms a skirt through the northern half, and the Grand Canal does the same through the southern half, which is where most of the interesting sights are found. Within the southern half, aim for the triangle bordered by O’Connell Bridge, St. Stephen’s Green and Christ Church Cathedral, where you’ll find Trinity College, Grafton Street (for shopping), Temple Bar (for hot nightlife) and Dublin Castle.
The upscale neighborhoods and the majority of hotels, restaurants, shops and sights are south of the river. The main shopping thoroughfare is Grafton Street, but you’ll find the more exclusive shops along the side streets. Dublin’s most beautiful squares — St. Stephen’s Green, Merrion Square and Fitzwilliam Square — are within 10 minutes’ walking distance of Grafton Street. Temple Bar lies along the Liffey near Ha’penny Bridge. North of the river is working-class Dublin, but you’ll also find Dublin’s most important theaters there — the Gate and the Abbey — as well as a pocket of fine Georgian townhouses on and around North Great George’s Street.
Dublin has a mild, temperate climate, and though showers can come up suddenly at any time of the year, they usually pass just as quickly. Average temperatures in summer range from 16 – 20 degrees Celsius (60 – 67 degrees Fahrenheit) and in winter from 4 – 7 degrees Celsius (39 – 44 degrees Fahrenheit).
What to See
 A cool way to get a bird’s eye view of the city in no time flat is a tour with one of the history graduates who run Historical Walking Tours. Stops include Trinity College, Old Parliament House, Dublin Castle and Christ Church Cathedral, among others. You’ll be filled in on everything from Viking origins to political struggles with Britain to the state of Ireland today. The same group also offers special tours focusing on women in Irish history, Dublin’s statues and monuments, and the sexual history of Ireland.
 Christ Church Cathedral (Christchurch Pl.) is a majestic mix of Norman, Gothic and even Victorian neo-Gothic styles. Its unusually large crypt is Dublin’s oldest building. If you want to make a short stop here (which is all we suggest) and make a small donation to the church, you can get into the crypt to see the statues and silver coins.
Built in 1204 by King John, Dublin Castle (Palace St., off Dame St.) was the seat of British rule in Ireland for 700 years. It was the official residence of the viceroy who implemented the will of the British royalty when, in 1922, the Brits handed power over to Michael Collins and the Irish. Guided tours, which include a walk through the many rooms and lavish apartments as well as a look at the foundations of the Norman tower (the best remaining chunk of the 13th-century town wall), are worth the time.
Theater buffs must stop at the Abbey Theatre (26 Lower Abbey St.). Founded by Yeats, it opened in 1904. All these years, it has enjoyed fame for its impeccable staging of Irish classics. A fire in 1951 destroyed the original theater along with the Peacock — and the current theaters have stood on the same sites since 1966. Though some might say the newer Abbey doesn’t have the passion of the old theater, efforts are being made to “preserve” some of its history. One way they do this is with a wonderful collection of portraits hanging on the walls of the lobby — some saved from the 1951 fire.
The Abbey may be more famous, but the Gate Theatre (1 Cavendish Row) is now the best, at least for contemporary drama. The Gate celebrated its 80th anniversary in 2008.
The impressive 19th-century National Gallery (Merrion Square West) is the city’s main art museum, with works from artists including Rubens, Monet, Gainsborough and Picasso — as well as a wonderful Caravaggio that was rediscovered in Dublin. One of the most interesting galleries houses the paintings of Ireland’s own Jack Yeats.
Showing off its treasures from the Stone Age to modern times, the archaeological branch of the National Museum of Ireland (2 Kildare St.) is wonderful. Wait till you see the world-class collection of medieval ecclesiastical objects and jewelry, the Ardagh Chalice, and the amber 18th-century Tara Brooch.
Built by the Guinness family, the 22-acre St. Stephen’s Green is Ireland’s oldest park. It was enclosed in 1664 and gradually became surrounded by the fine Georgian buildings you see today. Join the locals any sunny afternoon on this grassy oasis.
Enjoy a visit to St. Patrick’s Cathedral (St. Patrick’s Close), where Jonathan Swift (author of “Gulliver’s Travels”) was dean in the 18th century. Ireland’s largest church, this 13th-century cathedral was founded near a well where St. Patrick is said to have been baptized in 450 A.D.
One of the city’s oldest areas, the once run-down neighborhood of Temple Bar, with its zigzag maze of cobblestone streets, is hotter than New York’s SoHo and the Left Bank of Paris. Though it’s a must any day of the week, you’ll see it at its best on weekends when hordes of eager revelers pub-crawl till all hours. Check out Fishamble Street, Dublin’s oldest thoroughfare.
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 There are many reasons to visit the ivy-draped Trinity College, but the big draw is the priceless Book of Kells — a Christian manuscript of the four gospels that were established by the Protestant Elizabeth I in 1592 in an effort to stop “popery.” Doggedly Protestant until 1793, when Catholics were theoretically allowed in (although the Catholic Church banned its faithful from entering until 1970), the college went coed in 1904.
Elite alums include Jonathan Swift, Samuel Beckett, Bram Stoker and Oscar Wilde. A self-guiding walking tour is terrific here, but there is a 30-minute guided tour led by students, weather permitting, which includes entry to the Book of Kells in the Old Library.
Note: There’s usually a pretty long line to purchase a ticket, so if you’ve picked up a ticket through other means, such as the Dublin Experience (get it across the way inside the Modern Arts Building), just scoot past the crowd.
You won’t regret a stop at the Dublin Writers Museum (18 Parnell Sq.) to see wonderful memorabilia of Ireland’s best storytellers, including W.B. Yeats and Jonathan Swift, spanning more than 300 years. The collection includes early editions of works like “Gulliver’s Travels” and “The Importance of Being Earnest.”
Practically everything you ever wanted to know about Ireland’s famous brew can be found at the Guinness Storehouse (St. James’s Gate). Arthur Guinness began brewing on this site, now an honest-to-goodness museum, in 1759. Top off your visit with a stop at their store. For more potent potable fun, check out the Old Jameson Distillery that dates back to 1780 (Smithfield Village, Bow St.). It’s open daily.
A visit to the Irish Jewish Museum (3 – 4 Walworth St.) will give you an opportunity to peek into Jewish life in the early to mid 20th century. You’ll climb the stairs to the former Walworth Road Synagogue in the Portobello neighborhood — more than 150 men and women came to worship here before it fell into decline with the large movement of Jews out into the Dublin suburbs. The museum has a substantial collection of memorabilia that dates back 150 years.
If you loved “Riverdance”, you’ll love the Irish Traditional Music Archive (73 Merrion Sq.), a multimedia archive and resource center for the traditional song, music and dance of Ireland. First established in 1987, it now holds the world’s largest collection of books, recordings, photographs and videos on the subject.
Where to Stay
Dublin has a wide range of accommodations, from ultra-luxe boutique hotels to cheap and cheerful B&B’s. Prices tend to be highest during the summer high season, when Ireland sees the most visitors, and over the St. Patrick’s Day holiday — if you’re traveling then, book well in advance.
For a total splurge, try The Clarence (6-8 Wellington Quay). Located in the heart of Temple Bar, this celeb-haunted, see-and-be-seen boutique property is owned by Bono and The Edge of U2.
The Morgan Hotel (10 Fleet St.), located in the Temple Bar area within walking distance of Trinity College and St. Stephen’s Green, offers stylish rooms at a mid-range price.
The affordable Bewleys Hotel Ballsbridge (Merrion Rd.) is a stone’s throw from Embassy Row and offers rooms that are well-appointed, spacious and clean.
Travelers looking for a charming B&B in a quiet residential neighborhood should try Waterloo House (8/10 Waterloo Rd.), an old Georgian home located about a 10-minute walk from St. Stephen’s Green. Its 17 rooms are furnished with antiques.
The elegant Brooks Hotel (Drury St.) is a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World and offers an excellent location near Trinity College and Dublin Castle.
Where to Eat
 Ireland may not be famous for its cuisine, but the restaurant scene in Dublin goes far beyond the ever-present potato. If you’re looking for traditional favorites like shephard’s pie or Irish stew, try a pub or microbrewery — otherwise, you’re more likely to find sophisticated international cuisine in Dublin’s more upscale restaurants. Smoking is no longer permitted in any of Dublin’s bars or restaurants.
The Bad Ass Cafe (9-11 Crown Alley) is a Temple Bar institution, albeit quirky, for everything from steaks to pizza — and it’s actually all pretty good. Meats come from the cafe’s own family butcher.
The Mermaid Cafe (69/70 Dame St.) offers flawless Irish and Scottish cuisine with a modern twist. Reservations required.
At One Pico (5/6 Molesworth Pl.), you’ll find Continental cuisine at its best. Innovative dishes include crispy duck confit with spring cabbage, and lime- and herb-crusted monkfish. Reservations required.
Sure, wine’s the name of the game at Peploe’s Wine Bistro (16 St. Stephen’s Green), what with some 200 bottle listings — but the cuisine is certainly no slouch; look for dishes like the pan-fried loin of venison and the brochette of monkfish and prawns.
You might not go to Ireland expecting amazing Asian cuisine, but you’ll find it at Cafe Mao (2 Chatham Row). This local favorite serves up dishes like Sumatra lamb rendang and Thai duck with pineapple curry.
Where to Shop
Favorite goods to buy in Dublin include fine Irish linens, Waterford crystal and hand-knitted woolen garments. Grafton Street is the city’s preeminent shopping district, home to a number of boutiques and the Brown Thomas department store, but don’t miss a trip down the nearby side streets off of Grafton — including Duke and Dawson (the latter has a number of bookstores).
Brown Thomas (88-95 Grafton St.), Dublin’s most famous department store, has been in business on Grafton Street since 1849. Inside you’ll find Bottom Drawer, which offers some of the city’s finest Irish linens.
The Temple Bar area offers a number of fun weekend markets, including a food market in Meeting House Square and a book market in Temple Bar Square.
For great fashion finds, check out the Cow’s Lane Market; every Saturday, local designers offer one-of-a-kind wares.
If you’re hit by a bout of Irish rain, head indoors to one of Dublin’s malls or “arcades” — like the St. Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre (St. Stephen’s Green West) or the George’s Street Arcade (George’s St.).
Get your souvenir shopping done at House of Ireland (Nassau and Dawson Sts.), offering a wide selection of Waterford crystal, Aran knitwear, Celtic jewelry and more.
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